Getting
to know a foreign country's customs is important and sometimes
helpful in understanding their different ways.
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One
of the most beautiful customs our visitors are welcomed with
immediately after arrival on our little island is receiving
a flower garland, locally called ei. Nimble fingers pick
countless sweet-scented blossoms off trees and bushes and, sometimes
in combination with herbs such as sweet basil or dill, string
them up on a strong thread (or an old discarded video tape ribbon).
The ei is given as a sign of affection, welcome or farewell.
Eis can also be made into headbands. In
times when flowers are scarce, our women know how to use plain
leaves as an attractive substitute. There is no better jewellery
and perfume as that of fresh flowers.
There are different ways of stringing
up the flowers which, to the ones who know, indicate the level
of affection sewn into them. The most valued ei needs hundreds
of Tiare Maori (native gardenia) buds that will unfold
the next day into a scented delight as thick as someone's wrist. |
The
Ei

The
ei as a welcome or farewell gift
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Another very
special one is made of the separated and hollowed out keys
of the ripe ara (pandanus fruit)

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Tiare
Maori (native gardenia) flowers, lemon basil leaves
and pandanus keys are strung up alternatively until this
beautiful welcome gift is finished.

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Hair
Cutting Ceremony

This is perhaps
one of the strangest-sounding customs to non Cook Islanders.
Today it is considered a family's open demonstration of love
for and appreciation of a first-born son. It is also a form
of "coming of age" celebration.
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No
documentation exists of the origin of this custom. Perhaps it
was introduced by the missionaries who were eager to insure
the converts' demonstrations of renouncing their old beliefs.
Pre-missionary Cook Islanders are said to have eaten their enemies
supposing that the defeated adversary's power (mana) would
thus pass on to the victor. Consequently, giving away a piece
of one's body meant giving the recipient power over you and
was avoided by all means. Early explorers recorded that the
island men wore their long hair open or tied in a top knot.
With the hair cutting ceremony of the first born son, converts
were proclaiming openly that they were no longer afraid of being
punished by their heathen gods for adopting the new religion's
rules.
The custom has continued to the day. Once
the family has decided upon a boy's hair cutting, the preparations
start. Mats have to be woven, tivaevaes
(appliqué or pieced coverlets) need to be sewn
and an invitation list must be prepared on which, next to important
family members, island dignitaries and special friends, all
boys appear, whose haircutting the chosen boy has ever been
invited to. It can take several years until the family has saved
enough money for the celebration which, at times, sees as many
as 400 or more visitors for whom some 15 pigs, 10 goats and
140 chickens have to be raised or bought, killed and cooked,
not to talk of fish, taro, vegetables, cakes. |

When the
big day comes, the boy is dressed in a new suit. His long
hair is tied in as many strands as invited guests are given
the honour to receive a strand of his hair (above). They are
called forward in an order decided upon by the family to cut
one strand each which they are allowed to keep (below). In
return, the boy is given a gift which, in some cases, follows
carefully recorded traditional rules. A chosen family member
gives the final touch to the proud boy's new hairstyle.

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Tutaka
A horror
thought to many non-Cook Islands women is the quarterly tutaka
(inspection).
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Though the "spring cleaning" preceding
the tutaka isn't exactly the local women's favourite pastime
either, in a hot, humid climate such as ours it is a good
opportunity to keep the house and its contents, cooking and
wash houses and garden in healthy and hygienic conditions.
This is the inspection's aim. For two predetermined days at
the end of each quarter, a committee comprised of health officer,
doctor, nurses and special committee members elected from
each village will enter every house on the island and check
that cooking house and bath house are in pristine conditions.
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Beds are
made up with intricately embroidered
tivaivais and pillowcases,
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Children
and
old people are healthy and well looked after.

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Laundry
and clothes are washed, aired and neatly folded,
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Once
the hard work of cleaning, in which the whole family helps,
is finished, many women are proud to leave their houses open
and invite the committee (right) and whoever wants to join
them into their houses. Especially the tutaka before
Christmas brings out all the homes' treasures.
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Rooms
are nicely decorated. Each
house sparkles in colourful joy of life. There's even
a prize waiting for the best!
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