| You
can read about it in every guide book and information write-up:
THE
TUMUNU
|
| Pre-missionary
islanders used to gather for their kava drinking ceremony. The
numbing and nonalcoholic drink prepared from the kava root (piper
methysticum) and with it the ceremonial gathering were banned
according to the new rules. But the Atiuans missed their chance
of joining in happy company and discussing trivial and important
matters and so invented the home-brewed "orange beer".
Their barrel was the hollowed out bottom part of the coconut
trunk, in our Cook Islands Maori language tumunu. Hence
the name! Naturally this had to be done secretly hidden away
in the bush. Up until quite recent, modern times, the old laws
had not been abolished and drinking there remained illegal.
There are many hilarious stories that the men at the tumunu
will tell you about their old people's ingeniousness to disguise
their clandestine drinking parties. |
Unlike in a
pub, everyone gathers around a barrel, often no longer
of coconut wood, but of plastic.
The barman serves
the bush beer to the participants individually in a small coconut
shell, one after the other. |
The
Polynesian people are great orators and everyone is required
to introduce himself in a short speech. It is a great opportunity
to learn about each other's country and custom (hence the word
school), and for our men sharing some happy time with visitors
is a window to the rest of the world.
Some
of "The Boys"
Highlight of a tumunu visit is certainly the time when the singing
starts that the "boys" accompany paying their ukulele,
guitars and the umba, a home made bass (seen below top
left). |
|
Today, our
island has seven tumunus, still outside the villages, but
no longer hidden away from view. Some even have sign boards,
telephones, generators, tiled floors and members are aspiring
to making their "hideaway" as comfortable as possible.
Traditionally one needs to be a member or invited
guest to go drinking and, though it is no longer a rule that
women are not accepted, our local women gather at home, if
they want to drink in company. Some tumunus, however, enjoy
occasional visits by travelers such as "Are Tou"
whose sign you see above or "Teponui" (below).
|
It is emptied
and returned to the barman for refill and passing it to the
next person. The tumunu members will not be offended, if you
want to skip a round or don't like the taste or don't even
want to drink, but just be there for the experience. Be
warned, today's home brew is mostly made of hops and malt,
yeast and sugar. It is drunk relatively young and can have
a much stronger effect than its juicy taste reveals!
When the barman
taps his coconut cup against the barrel everyone falls silent.
The leader of the "gang" then says a short prayer
and afterwards introduces his fellow drinkers to one another.
|
Join
in and sing a song from home in return!
An invitation or organised tour should always precede a tumunu
visit. You will not openly be asked to pay for your drinking,
but it is quietly expected that you compensate your hosts
for their expenses with a minimum of NZ$ 5.00
or the equivalent in sugar.
|
|
|
The 16 members of Teponui
Tumunu have taken great trouble
to make their bush beer school a place of pride. You feel
taken right back to the forefathers' times - except that the
tumunus of old would, of course, not have been so obvious
at all! |
Teponui
was winner of the last two "Tumunu Tutakas"!
|
 |
 Like
the God of the Booze, this tiki (carved figure, left)
watches over the happy round in the kikau (coconut thatch)
hut. Calm as the centre of the storm,
Apii, the barman (top centre left), sits at his coconut barrel,
proffering you the coconut cup full of dangerous bush beer. |
|
 Old
and new songs accompany the happy time spent in the company
of friends. Like Are Tou, Teponui welcomes visitors to join
in their happy hour. Ask your accommodator to arrange a visit
for you. And please don't forget your unsolicited
contribution of NZ$ 5.00! |
|
Cutting
the ribbon |
Kia
Orana Bungalows
have a new addition:
The Marae
December
2004 saw the official opening (left) of a
new Bar and Entertainment Area that has become a
popular meeting point for our island population and visitors
alike after a hot day in the sun. The owners, the Boaza
Family (below right), plan to extend it eventually to a
fully operational restaurant. In the meantime, drinks are
served at the bar in the evenings and people can hire the
premises for family functions.
|
at
the official opening |
Fun,
music
|
and
dance
|
at
the Marae |
|
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